"On special occasions, some people like to drink sparkling wine, before, during and after the meal. For that, I recommend we stray outside American shores, but first, you must ask yourself: just how special is Thanksgiving to you? If we're talking really, really special, you can spring for a Louis Roederer 2002 Cristal Champagne ($250). Biscuity, fruity, with all the depth, balance, intrigue and long finish you can ask for. Taittinger, Moet & Chandon, Bollinger and Krug are some other top producers, and recent quality vintages that are drinking well are 2000 and 2002.
At the other end of the scale, price wise, I recommend Prosecco, a sparkling wine from Italy. Refreshing, light, inexpensive bubbly -- you can even serve this to Aunt Hattie while you sip the Cristal in the kitchen. Mionetto is a dependable Prosecco producer; these are largely nonvintage wines."