×

Stella McCartney brings country club chic to Paris

* Crayola colours of tangerine and green pop for summer

* Geometric shapes add curve to sporty collection

* Kate Moss, Paul McCartney on hand in front row

By Alexandria Sage

PARIS, Oct 1 (Reuters) - With one glance at the invitation to Stella McCartney's summer fashion show, it was obvious it would be quirky, decorated as it was with clear plastic tubing shaped into the form of spectacles.

But even the near-sighted couldn't miss the eye-popping shades of orange sherbet, canary yellow and Kermit-the-Frog green that made their way down the Paris runway on Monday in long, sporty silhouettes.

Held in an ornate Beaux-Arts salon inside the Opera Garnier, McCartney's spring/summer 2013 collection was an airy nod to geometry, with sometimes severe cuts softened by see-through fabrics and peek-a-boo reveals.

Brightly hued circles of silk organza took centre stage on whisper-thin dresses cut at the shins, while exaggerated, deep V-necklines exposed skin beneath boxy jackets, some with pronounced shoulder pads that Joan Crawford would have loved.

"I really champion women, I admire women," said McCartney after the show. "I want my collections to empower them."

Yet despite the hidden structure in cotton bustiers and crisp pique dresses, the show from the British designer - whose autumn/winter looks presented in March featured edgy, tight-to-the-body dresses - highlighted fluidity.

As relaxed as a gin and tonic after an afternoon round of golf was an all-green ensemble of slouchy trousers and pullover with roomy sleeves, while pure white trousers and blouses cut at the elbow imparted a fresh, tennis-club vibe.

SUNGLASSES AT THE OPERA

All eyes before the show were on supermodel Kate Moss, who entered the gilded salon in sunglasses and a black fringe dress, offering a breezy "Morning, everyone!" to the front row.

The A-list seating included a spot for the designer's ex-Beatle father, Paul, who just three weeks earlier received from the Legion of Honour, France's highest award.

"It was very beautiful the way that material moved," he told reporters.

Others on hand included comedian Jerry Seinfeld, rapper M.I.A. and actress Charlotte Rampling, who called Stella McCartney a long-time friend.

"I've known her since she was very little ... so it's lovely to see what she's doing, especially in this setting," Rampling told Reuters TV. "It's a beautiful setting to show fashion in."

Stella McCartney brand is a joint venture with French luxury and retail group PPR , whose stable of brands include Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci and Alexander McQueen.

(Additional Reporting By Leona Liu, editing by Paul Casciato)

((alexandria.sage@thomsonreuters.com)(+33 1 4949 5219)(Reuters Messaging: alexandria.sage@thomsonreuters.com@reuters.net))

Keywords: FASHION FRANCE/MCCARTNEY