With so many expensive skincare options, it can be hard to know which ones are actually worth it. But as a Cornell dermatologist with more than a decade of experience, there's one type of product I never waste money on: abrasive exfoliant scrubs.
Exfoliating is great to include in your skincare routine, especially during winters. It gets rid of dead skin cells, helping the skin to appear more radiant and feel smoother. It also reduces the appearance of discoloration and fine lines, and boosts the production of important proteins like collagen.
Chemical exfoliants buff away dead skin cells, while physical exfoliants weaken the bonds between them. You want to make sure that you are choosing ones that will give you all the benefits — and none of the harsh ingredients.
The No. 1 type of exfoliant I avoid
I always tell my patients to steer clear of products that contain large, irregularly shaped or jagged granules — like formulas with walnut shells or ground fruit pits — which can lead to microtears in the skin, as well as redness, irritation and sensitivity.
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If you have sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, you may want a physical exfoliant. I recommend products with uniformly-shaped, smooth granules. Or look for a powder-based scrub made with clay or bamboo extract.
My best advice for sensitive skin
People with sensitive skin may experience redness, stinging and burning, and may be more likely to react to certain ingredients.
If that's the case, you may want to consider chemical exfoliants. These formulas tend to include alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, or beta-hydroxy acids like salicylic acid.
Alpha-hydroxy acids gently eliminates dead skin cells at the surface, while beta-hydroxy acids are oil-soluble and penetrate deep into the pores to help reduce breakouts. Both work to brighten the skin and improve overall texture and tone.
If you have acne-prone skin, you may want to consider salicylic acid to help unclog those pores. Some people may find they are unable to tolerate a physical exfoliant on their face, but might be able to on their body. So it may help to use different exfoliants for different purposes.
Regardless of the method you use, it is important to limit the amount of exfoliation to just once or twice a week. Exfoliating too often or too aggressively can leave your skin looking red or inflamed and cause tightness, stinging or burning.
The products I use instead
Some of my favorite products include Paula's Choice skin perfecting 2% BHA liquid exfoliant, which retails for $34, First Aid Beauty facial radiance pads, which retails for $38, and the Ordinary AHA and BHA peeling solution, which retails for $9.50.
If you are not sure where to begin, it never hurts to check with a dermatologist to determine which one is best for you.
Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD is a leading board-certified dermatologist in New York City. She is a Clinical Assistant Professor of Dermatology at New York Presbyterian-Weill Cornell Medicine. Marisa received her Bachelor's of Science from Emory University and graduated from the Tufts University School of Medicine. Follow her on Instagram @drmarisagarshick.
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